Professional discussion for Jewelry,Gold & Fine Gemstones

Archive for April, 2011

A Cut Above

Most everyone that has shopped for a diamond knows about the four C’s. Cut, Color, Clarity, and Carat weight are the ones most talked about, to which I add Confidence in the seller and grader. The first thing I try to explain is there is no such thing as a certified diamond, only diamonds with certificates. All those documents state that they are the opinion of the grader, not a guarantee or warranty. Carat weight is not subjective, you just put the diamond on the scale and weigh it. Clarity and color however are subjective grades give by the grader. The Gemological Institute of America came up with this system in the fifties and teaches their students to grade to their standards. Many Laboratories have sprung up to grade diamonds due to the number of graduate gemologists and the consumer demand for these documents. A bevy of initials, IGI, EGL, HRD, and many more have joined the ranks of GIA. Unfortunately, some have become more lenient in their grading in order to sell more diamonds. EGL invented their own clarity grade SI3, which sounds better than I-1 in order for their customers to sell more diamonds. American Gem Society joined the lab game, and now produces a report that includes light performance. That fourth C, cut, is probably the least understood and the most technical based of the four C’s. Cut encompasses the pattern or angles that the diamond has in its final form. AGS for many years has graded what they refer to as the Ideal cut diamond. Through a combination of crown angle, table size, pavilion depth, girdle thickness, culet size, and total depth, AGS came up with the parameters for the Ideal diamond proportions. In 1919 a mathematician named Marcel Tolkowsky came up with the angles through math and physics. Today with computer generated models, his theory was mostly confirmed as the best proportions for the round diamond. We have a computer aided measuring device today called a Megascope or Sarin that measures the diamond to a .01mm tolerance.  We are the only retailer in Licking County to have this device and an AGS accredited Lab. This allows us to be more discriminating in choosing our diamonds for sale and more accurate when providing appraisals and insurance documents. After all, when we talk about light performance, we want the best sparkle and scintillation we can buy. And our clients appreciate that our diamond looks especially good on her finger.

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